Access: From the boat harbour of cala gonone, pleasure boats go to cala luna from the end of may until the end of october and during the holidays. alternatively, you can choose to walk along a path through the canyon for about one and a half hours.
description: On the right side of the beach (the caves), there is a rock of medium height with some small caves full of single-pitches, some of them soapy, but nice and often very difficult with prevalent overhangs. On the left, there is a very nice huge rock spur with some double-pitches.
recommended season: Throughout the whole year. it is recommended not to climb on windy days (sirocco) in the area of the large caves.
Orientation – cardinal direction: Facing east
Height: from 15 to 75 metres
necessary equipment
ropes: 60metres for single-pitch ropes or 2 ropes of 50 metres for the longer routes.
pegging: mainly expansion-typed rock anchors resp. bolts.
The routes
There are about 30 routes in two different sectors separated by the beach.
Le Grotte / the caves (right side)
|
Name |
Length |
Difficulty level |
|
Senza nome |
7 metres |
- |
|
Chi Tienne 'O mare |
15 metres |
6c |
|
Pesce Abissale |
15 metres |
6c |
|
Anopfel |
15 metres |
6c |
|
Mr. Nice |
15 metres |
6c+ |
|
Special Case |
15 metres |
7° |
|
Mr. Franz |
10 metres |
6c+ |
|
Strangios |
15 metres |
7a+ |
|
Rust |
10 metres |
- |
|
Il Quinto Passo |
10 metres |
6c+ |
|
Stamina |
12 metres |
6c+ |
|
La Nausea |
15 metres |
6c+ |
|
Il Guru |
15 metres |
7° |
|
Gioventù Cannibale |
15 metres |
7b+ |
|
Eia |
30 metres |
8b+ |
|
Aube |
15 metres |
7c+ |
|
Esti unu pachiderma |
15 metres |
7b+ |
|
I Ronfioni |
15 metres |
7c+ |
|
Aray |
20 metres |
7a+/7b |
|
El Gomone |
25 metres |
8b |
|
Progetto Lynn Hill |
20 metres |
8a+ |
|
La Mucca Assassina |
20 metres |
7c |
|
Cala Luna |
15 metres |
7b |
|
Sexy Bomb |
15 metres |
7° |
|
Power Cicken |
15 metres |
7c |
|
Bellas Mariposas |
15 metres |
7c+ |
|
Laura |
20 metres |
- |
|
Figa Velenosa |
20 metres |
7a+/7b |
|
Baby Pipistrello |
15 metres |
6a+ |
|
Puta Vida |
15 metres |
7a+ |
|
Telenovelas |
15 metres |
- |
Scoglio di Luna / Moon rock (left side)
|
Name |
Length |
Difficulty level |
|
La Strada per Lula |
18 metres |
6b |
|
Uu metresare di infiniti ricordi |
18 metres |
5c |
|
L’altro sport |
18 metres |
6b |
|
Satori |
18 metres |
6a+ |
|
La prima goccia |
18 metres |
5c |
|
Fata Morgana |
18 metres |
6b |
|
Fessura degli spilli |
70 metres |
5c |
|
Vamos a la playa |
75 metres |
6° |
|
Joey |
30 metres |
7b+ |
|
Vampiri di Vetro |
40 metres |
6b |
|
Vampiri di Vetro2 |
30 metres |
6b+ |
